An Oasis

According to ome archeologists, the Sarasvati River used to run through Rajasthan, but dried up sometime in the late Vedic era. In its wake lies a dozen oases and the seasonal Ghaggar-Hakra River. We can only imagine how this land once flourished during the age of Rishis and Devas.




On the banks of this oasis:

Asli Registhan

Rajasthan is famous for the Thar Registan [The Great Indian Desert], one of the driest places of Earth. Outside Jaisalmer, I rode a camel throughout this Registan to see this alien land.

Dhollia puckers up and says hi:


Dhollia and me:


The view from the top:


The road ahead:


Akhon ke phool [click to enlarge]:


Hey you kids! Get off my lawn!


Sunset in India, Sunrise in America:

The Vainglorious Havelis of Jaisalmer

Unlike the havelis at Mandawa, Jaisalmer's havelis are intricately carved in sandstone with little murals. They are testament to the large mercantile empire that Jaisalmer controlled in the 1500s. Some of these havelis, priced at millions of current US dollars, took decades to sculpt. Some of the descendents of the trading families still live in them.

Click to see sculpting details




Patwon ki Haveli, the largest haveli in Jaisalmer


...today inhabited only by thousands of bats


View of Jaisalmer Fort from Nathmalji ki Haveli

The city that is a fort

Jaisalmer Fort has been continuously inhabited since the time of the Crusades. Falling once to Allaudin Khilji, it is remembered in the folk memory of India as the fort of the Aadhaa Jauhar, in which the Princesses and Queens took their own lives rather than be dehumanized as part of Khilji's harem.

Not surprisingly, it is India's second largest fort, appearing as a crown upon the rest of the city of Jaisalmer.


The rather unassuming Akh Pol [Cactus Gate] is the main entry to the Fort


The Surya Pol [Sun Gate] is positioned in such a way that enemy elephants cannot gain the momentum to breach it.


The Maharaja still celebrates Diwali on these premises


A quarter of Jaisalmer's population still lives inside the fort in small galis [alleys]


The rest lives outside the walls in an equally medieval Jaisalmer.


The last time the fort was in active use was in 1965, when Pakistani forces crept from the horizon to make an ill-conceived siege of the fort. They of course failed miserably.

Gadisar Lake, Jaisalmer

Gadisar is a manmade reservoir in Jaisalmer built in the 1700s.

This main gate that leads to the lake was unknowingly built by prostitutes, and so, noble people never pass under it, but rather use a rather humble steppath to the right, under the tree.


This ghat [steppes] is painstakingly modelled after the one at Benares.


The Maharaja's personal island:


Outside, some little boys with gigantic turbans do some breakdancing, desi-style!


Here they are, giving thanks for the rather generous Rs. 100 ($2) note

Junagadh Fort

Junagadh is a beautiful fort in Bikaner, on the Indo-Pak border. By far the most recent, built in the 1800s, it is testament to the shrewd diplomacy of Bikaji's descendents, who forsook Rajput honor and independence to become vassals to the British and Mughals. Regardless of what it
represents, few can disagree that it is quite charming.

Outside Views:






Anglo-Sassanid Style in columns, lamps, and arches


Diwan-e-Khaas [King's Court]


Badal Mahal [Cloud Palace]


Sheesh mahal [Mirror Palace]

Somewhere, Mahatma Gandhi has a huge headache

A LOT has changed in India over the past five years. Driving through some areas of Delhi, its hard to imagine that this city of flyovers and mega-malls is actually in a developing country. But most of all, I think what's completely new is the fast food...McDonalds, Subway, Pizza Hut, Taco Bell, Dominos, Ben and Jerrys...its all there!

Here's a fuzzy snapshot of McDonalds. There you can find Ronald McDonald wearing a turban.

Vegetarian
Paneer Salsa Wrap
McCurry Pie Shahi Paneer
McVeggie Burger
Veg Surprise
McAloo Tikki Burger
Veg Pizza Puff


Non Vegetarian
Chicken Maharaja mac
Chicken Mexican Wrap
McCurry Pan Shahi Chicken
Filet-o-Fish
McChicken Burger
Chicken McGrill Burger



And here's Sethu Mausi and Kunnu Didi enjoying some Pizza Hut.

Vegetarian
veggie taka tak,
teekha paneer makhani,
peshawari channa paneer,



Non Vegetarian
chicken tikka makhani,
tandoori chicken chutneywala, and
shahi shammi kebab.








Lemme tell you, chutney and paneer on pizza may sound gross, but its far better than you think.